Access Granada The last kingdom, and the hill it held.
Churros with chocolate, in the morning, the way Bib-Rambla sells them.
THE TAPA COMES WITH THE DRINK

Food & Drink

Granada still gives you food with your drink, and it is not a gimmick.

Photograph by the author

The free tapa

⭐ Order a drink in most bars in Granada and something to eat arrives with it, included. This is genuinely still the custom here in a way it is not in most Spanish cities, and it shapes how an evening works: you move between bars rather than settling in one.

⚠️ What arrives is the bar's choice, and it improves with each round in many places. You do not order it and you should not ask for a menu of it.

What is local

Habas con jamón — broad beans with ham. Tortilla del Sacromonte, an offal omelette that is exactly as challenging as it sounds. Remojón, an orange and salt cod salad that makes more sense in the heat than it does on paper. Wine from the hills, and vino costa from the coast.

The Plaza Bib-Rambla is where the churros are, in the morning.

Where not to eat

⚠️ The streets immediately below the Alhambra and the lanes right around the cathedral are priced for people who will not come back. Walk five minutes further — toward the Realejo, or up into the Albaicín — and both the price and the food change.

A drink and the tapa that arrived with it, unasked and included: octopus, potatoes and grilled red pepper.
A drink and the tapa that arrived with it, unasked and included: octopus, potatoes and grilled red pepper.Photograph by the author
A tetería in the Albaicín — painted ceiling, low seats, and mint tea rather than wine.
A tetería in the Albaicín — painted ceiling, low seats, and mint tea rather than wine.Photograph by the author
Berenjenas con miel de caña — aubergine fried and poured with cane syrup.
Berenjenas con miel de caña — aubergine fried and poured with cane syrup.Lagambadeoro, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
The plato alpujarreño from the mountains behind the city: egg, potatoes, cured pork and morcilla on one plate.
The plato alpujarreño from the mountains behind the city: egg, potatoes, cured pork and morcilla on one plate.Palickap, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Piononos from Santa Fe, out on the vega — a mouthful of soaked sponge and cream, eaten in one.
Piononos from Santa Fe, out on the vega — a mouthful of soaked sponge and cream, eaten in one.Zarateman, Wikimedia Commons, CC0

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